microsoft.news.com wrote:
> "VanguardLH" <V@nguard.LH> wrote in message
> news:i0fse0$gti$1@news.albasani.net...
>> microsoft.news.com wrote:
>>
>>> I'm _trying_ to do a "Dell System Return return my computer to
>>> *factory Condition*. The CD-ROM drive has been dysfunctional for
>>> dome time and I normally just use the DVD read/write drive instead.
>>> All goes fine up to the point when it tries to reboot to start the
>>> reinstallation process and than stalls with the message "No CD-ROM."
>>> There doesn't' appear to be the option in the BIOS to boot fro DVD
>>> drive, just CD-ROM.
>>
>> Yet tried yanking the power cable (after powering down the computer)
>> from the problematic CD-ROM drive when you are attempting to do the
>> factory image restore operation? Obviously you aren't using the bad
>> CD-ROM drive to do the restore so you don't need it physically
>> available during the restore.
>
> I couldn't figure out how to get the plugout...
> I'll have another try tomorrow.
While you gave the model, I don't have the inclination to check if that
computer supports IDE, SATA, or both type of devices. If an IDE drive
is included, it uses a 4-pin Molex connector. It may only support SATA
drives.
Molex power connector:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...onnector.jpg/800px-Molex_female_connector.jpg
SATA power connector (the larger one shown on the *left*):
http://www.pcstats.com/articleimages/200708/LGGSAH62N_sata2.jpg
Just pull the 4-pin Molex connector straight out from the socket on the
PCB on the CD-ROM drive. If it is stubborn, use a ViseGrip pliers on
the plug, clamp it down, hold the grip end with one hand, and whack the
palm of your other hand against the plier body. If it is stubborn to
come out, it will probably be stubborn going back in so you need to be
sure not to damage the "pins" (which are simply stamped metal) when
reinserting.
You need to feel when the female pins will line up and slide over the
male pins to prevent smashing them. Most users just mash the plug into
the socket without feeling if they actually mated up correctly. If the
female pins have been squeezed too tight, or the female/male pins have
oxide on them, they may stick.
Although there is a small degree of polarization in the plug and socket
bodies by having 2 angled corners (the others are square), it is
possible to force in a 4-pin Molex plug upside down into the socket. Be
sure the rounded or angled corners on the Molex plug line up with the
same corners in the Molex socket. If the plug doesn't seem to want to
go into the socket, wiggle it around to see if you can feel when the
female pins happen to line up over the male pins. Unlike the trick of
using a pliers to give you leverage (not at an angle but straight out)
to remove the plug, only use your fingers to insert the plug.
Be sure to use anti-static measure when working inside the case of your
computer. If you have an anti-static wrist wrap then great. If you
don't, keep one hand always on the chassis while using your other hand
to remove and replace cables. In either case, make sure the computer's
power cord is still plugged from the PSU to the wall socket (which must
be grounded) so the chassis is actually grounded. In actuality, it is
only required that your voltaic potential be the same as for the chassis
and I've never had a problem if my feet are insulated (by wearing
sneakers with their rubber/plastic soles) but I stay connected to the
chassis to ensure my voltaic potential equals that for the chassis. It
is a *difference* in potential that destroys. Grounding of the user and
grounding of the chassis simply ensures they're all equal. Grounding of
the user beforehand ensures to dissipate any charge they accumulated
when walking across the carpet to work on their computer, as long as the
computer chassis is also grounded.
The Molex connectors rely on pressure (of the split female pin sliding
onto and grabbing the male pin). Most SATA power connectors just pull
out; however, it is possible there is a secure tab to keep it locked in
place where you have to depress the tang to release the locking tang,
like:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_3rJYfhmJ2...20/internal-sata-latching-connector-cable.jpg
There is another way to do this. Boot into the system BIOS. Go into
the screens that control into the controller configurations. If the
CD-ROM and DVD-ROM devices are on different controllers, you can
probably disable the controller used for the problematic CD-ROM drive.
When you disable a controller, everything connected to it becomes
inaccessible. For IDE controllers, there are 2 devices: master and
slave. If only 1 device is connected to an IDE controller, you can
disable it. If 2 devices are connected to that IDE controller, both
become inaccessible. Each SATA device gets its own controller but
you'll have to see if your BIOS lets you individually disable each SATA
controller.
I've done this several times where I install Windows on a SATA drive
where there exists and IDE drive in the system. Windows screws up by
installing its loader on the IDE drive but the rest of it on the SATA
drive and I get multiple drive letters to manage. I just want Windows
on the SATA drive, so I configure the BIOS to boot first from the CD-ROM
drive (to use the install media) and then from the SATA drive, but I
have to disable the IDE controller to the IDE drive so Windows can't see
it nor can it use it in any way. Disabling controllers in the BIOS lets
you make invisible some devices to get them out of the way.
If the CD-ROM and DVD-RW drives are IDE and on the same IDE controller
then disabling that IDE controller in BIOS means both optical drives
become inaccessible. So you'll have to pull the power from the CD-ROM
drive to get it out of the way.
hvksUFGLHA.1868@TK2MSFTNGP05.phx.gbl...