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Notebook hangs when connected to external power supply

Discussion in 'Notebooks' started by Mike De Petris, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
    battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i
    thought it was a Vista-Toshiba issue but only to discover that even in
    BIOS it freezes instantly when the charger is plugged in. When the
    laptop is off, any attempt to power it on while the charger is plugged
    in, results only in a flicker of the power led.
    I tried different chargers, ANY possible power options combinations in
    Vista and Win7.

    If I boot from battery and enter Windows Safe Mode, or Hiren's boot
    CD, or WinXP mini all works fine even if I connect the power cord,
    where normal Windows and BIOS freeze istantly.

    I'm even thing of giving current directly by the battery contacts...
    may this be possible?

    Any help or advice on possible causes or solution to this issue would
    be grateful. Thank you :)
     
  2. the wharf rat

    the wharf rat Flightless Bird

    In article <fd312ad0-bf0a-477f-8c5a-78b4aaa91990@e14g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
    Mike De Petris <mikedepetris@gmail.com> wrote:
    >I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
    >battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i


    Short in the charger, the battery, or the charging circuits.
     
  3. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On Apr 24, 10:03 pm, w...@panix.com (the wharf rat) wrote:
    > In article <fd312ad0-bf0a-477f-8c5a-78b4aaa91...@e14g2000yqd.googlegroups..com>,
    > Mike De Petris  <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    >
    > >I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
    > >battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i

    >
    >         Short in the charger, the  battery, or the charging circuits.


    even if it works in safe mode or booting Hiren's CD?
     
  4. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On Apr 24, 10:15 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    > On Apr 24, 10:03 pm, w...@panix.com (the wharf rat) wrote:
    >
    > > In article <fd312ad0-bf0a-477f-8c5a-78b4aaa91...@e14g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
    > > Mike De Petris  <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:

    >
    > > >I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
    > > >battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First i

    >
    > >         Short in the charger, the  battery, or the charging circuits.

    >
    > even if it works in safe mode or booting Hiren's CD?


    don't know what more to check!
     
  5. BillW50

    BillW50 Flightless Bird

    In
    news:478f5483-c073-4247-90b4-0e2dda94f8f3@e2g2000yqn.googlegroups.com,
    Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 02:56:13 -0700 (PDT):
    > On Apr 24, 10:15 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    >> On Apr 24, 10:03 pm, w...@panix.com (the wharf rat) wrote:
    >>
    >>> In article
    >>> <fd312ad0-bf0a-477f-8c5a-78b4aaa91...@e14g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>,
    >>> Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:

    >>
    >>>> I have a Toshiba Satellite A205 - S4777 that works perfect while on
    >>>> battery, but the instance i plug the charger in, it freezes. First
    >>>> i

    >>
    >>> Short in the charger, the battery, or the charging circuits.

    >>
    >> even if it works in safe mode or booting Hiren's CD?

    >
    > don't know what more to check!


    Under the Device Manager, look under Batteries and find "Microsoft AC
    Adapter" (hopefully you have one or similar). Right click and select
    properties. Then select don't use this device and then see what happens.

    I have no idea what will happen. It could start working normally. Or not
    detect the AC adapter when Windows is running is my two guesses. But it
    would be interesting to see what happens. But it sounds like an ACPI
    driver issue to me if it is software related. Does Toshiba have Windows
    7 ACPI drivers?

    It is troubling that it locks up in the BIOS Setup menu too. But not
    from Windows Safe Mode, Hiren's boot CD, or WinXP mini. That really
    suggests a hardware problem. And it isn't the AC adapter since you have
    changed this.

    Yes you should be able to power the laptop through the battery
    connections. Might be as simple as just using the negative and positive
    connections. Although the AC adapter puts out far more voltage than what
    the battery would hold. And this would most likely take out the laptop.
    So I would use an AC adapter that puts out the range of the battery
    voltage instead. And never connect power directly to the battery. As the
    battery will burst into flames!

    If it doesn't turn out to be this simple. The battery also has
    connections that are related to the safety circuits within the battery.
    Thus they might have to be emulated or fooled before the laptop will
    take power from these connections.

    I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone battery
    manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter jack. And
    have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down to acceptable
    range. Thus this would be great for those who has a damaged AC jack or
    those who has a problem that it won't run off of AC but it does fine
    from battery.

    --
    Bill
    Gateway M465e ('06 era) - Windows XP SP3
     
  6. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    > I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone battery
    > manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter jack. And
    > have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down to acceptable
    > range. Thus this would be great for those who has a damaged AC jack or
    > those who has a problem that it won't run off of AC but it does fine
    > from battery.


    oh yes that would be terribly useful

    anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    some snapshots:
    http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVCwySifLLHb2xQTyZIA7QQ
     
  7. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    > On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >
    > > I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone battery
    > > manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter jack. And
    > > have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down to acceptable
    > > range. Thus this would be great for those who has a damaged AC jack or
    > > those who has a problem that it won't run off of AC but it does fine
    > > from battery.

    >
    > oh yes that would be terribly useful
    >
    > anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    > some snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...


    http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    sorry
     
  8. BillW50

    BillW50 Flightless Bird

    In
    news:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c@b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
    Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
    > On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    >> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >>
    >>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
    >>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
    >>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
    >>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
    >>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
    >>> AC but it does fine from battery.

    >>
    >> oh yes that would be terribly useful
    >>
    >> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    >> some
    >> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...

    >
    > http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    > sorry


    Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
    FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
    would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.

    Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
    it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
    else to check.

    And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
    button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
    bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
    center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?

    And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
    unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
    two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
    that so?

    --
    Bill
    Gateway M465e ('06 era) - Windows XP SP3
     
  9. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    > Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c@b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
    > Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
    >
    >
    >
    > > On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    > >> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:

    >
    > >>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
    > >>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
    > >>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
    > >>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
    > >>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
    > >>> AC but it does fine from battery.

    >
    > >> oh yes that would be terribly useful

    >
    > >> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    > >> some
    > >> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...

    >
    > >http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    > > sorry

    >
    > Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
    > FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
    > would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
    >
    > Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
    > it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
    > else to check.
    >
    > And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
    > button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
    > bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
    > center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
    >
    > And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
    > unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
    > two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
    > that so?


    the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
    fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
    the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
    nothing changes


    my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
    that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
    the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
    position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
    switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
    and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
    battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
    battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place

    should this work?
     
  10. BillW50

    BillW50 Flightless Bird

    Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
    > On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c@b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
    >> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    >>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
    >>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
    >>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
    >>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
    >>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
    >>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
    >>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
    >>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    >>>> some
    >>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
    >>> http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    >>> sorry

    >> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
    >> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
    >> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
    >>
    >> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
    >> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
    >> else to check.
    >>
    >> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
    >> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
    >> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
    >> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
    >>
    >> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
    >> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
    >> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
    >> that so?

    >
    > the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
    > fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
    > the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
    > nothing changes
    >
    >
    > my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
    > that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
    > the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
    > position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
    > switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
    > and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
    > battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
    > battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place
    >
    > should this work?


    Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
    will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
    anything. But no guarantee.

    One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
    voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
    lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
    cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
    per cell in series. Or something around this figure.

    And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
    in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
    10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
    (others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
    the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.

    And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
    you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
    okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
    too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
    something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
    this, doesn't it?

    So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
    match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
    voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
    They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
    might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
    the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.

    Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
    accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
    not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
    supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
    safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
    into flames.

    And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
    makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
    should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
    the vapors are probably dangerous too.

    Now do you want to rethink all of this?

    --
    Bill
    2 Asus EEE PC 7014G ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
    2 Asus EEE PC 7028G ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
    Windows XP SP2/SP3 ~ Xandros Linux
     
  11. Mike De Petris

    Mike De Petris Flightless Bird

    On Jun 30, 11:47 pm, BillW50 <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    > Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > > On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    > >> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c@b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
    > >> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):

    >
    > >>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    > >>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    > >>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
    > >>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
    > >>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
    > >>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
    > >>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
    > >>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
    > >>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
    > >>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    > >>>> some
    > >>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
    > >>>http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    > >>> sorry
    > >> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
    > >> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
    > >> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.

    >
    > >> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
    > >> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
    > >> else to check.

    >
    > >> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
    > >> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
    > >> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
    > >> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?

    >
    > >> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
    > >> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
    > >> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
    > >> that so?

    >
    > > the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
    > > fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
    > > the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
    > > nothing changes

    >
    > > my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
    > > that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
    > > the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
    > > position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
    > > switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
    > > and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
    > > battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
    > > battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place

    >
    > > should this work?

    >
    > Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
    > will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
    > anything. But no guarantee.
    >
    > One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
    > voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
    > lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
    > cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
    > per cell in series. Or something around this figure.
    >
    > And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
    > in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
    > 10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
    > (others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
    > the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.
    >
    > And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
    > you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
    > okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
    > too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
    > something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
    > this, doesn't it?
    >
    > So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
    > match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
    > voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
    > They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
    > might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
    > the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.
    >
    > Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
    > accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
    > not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
    > supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
    > safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
    > into flames.
    >
    > And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
    > makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
    > should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
    > the vapors are probably dangerous too.
    >
    > Now do you want to rethink all of this?


    somebody suggests me to have a look at Intel's papares to find any
    possible patch or update of the microcode, so I put the motherboard
    into the scanner:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/23705027@N06/sets/72157624394316536/

    On the CPU I can read:

    LF80537 T5300
    5648B999 SL9WE

    1.73/2M/533
    INTEL... copyright symbols and "06"

    It would be good to try a new or even different CPU to check if it's
    working...
     
  12. BillW50

    BillW50 Flightless Bird

    Mike De Petris wrote on Thu, 1 Jul 2010 00:31:53 -0700 (PDT):
    > On Jun 30, 11:47 pm, BillW50 <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >> Mike De Petris wrote on Tue, 29 Jun 2010 02:36:40 -0700 (PDT):
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>> On 8 May, 16:53, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >>>> Innews:e0dbd045-a6cf-4988-b343-274d769c808c@b7g2000yqk.googlegroups.com,
    >>>> Mike De Petris typed on Sat, 8 May 2010 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT):
    >>>>> On May 8, 3:27 pm, Mike De Petris <mikedepet...@gmail.com> wrote:
    >>>>>> On May 8, 2:51 pm, "BillW50" <Bill...@aol.kom> wrote:
    >>>>>>> I always thought a good product to come out with for those clone
    >>>>>>> battery manufactures would be fake batteries that has an AC adapter
    >>>>>>> jack. And have a voltage regulator inside to knock the voltage down
    >>>>>>> to acceptable range. Thus this would be great for those who has a
    >>>>>>> damaged AC jack or those who has a problem that it won't run off of
    >>>>>>> AC but it does fine from battery.
    >>>>>> oh yes that would be terribly useful
    >>>>>> anyway I suspect some hardware failure in the power zone, I've got
    >>>>>> some
    >>>>>> snapshots:http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#&usg=AFQjCNH25LmnVC...
    >>>>> http://picasaweb.google.it/mikedepetris/Toshiba#
    >>>>> sorry
    >>>> Wow! You have it all torn apart. See those two fuselinks? One is labeled
    >>>> FUSE500 and the other is labeled FUSE501? They are probably okay, but I
    >>>> would ohm them anyway, as they are easy to check.
    >>>> Large electrolytic capacitors are the weakest component generally. And
    >>>> it looks like C520 is one of them. That is probably okay, but something
    >>>> else to check.
    >>>> And that first picture off to the far right. What is that? A reset
    >>>> button? And is that board below the main board? And what is that thing
    >>>> bottom right? That disc looking thing with a large black dot in the
    >>>> center? Is that a coil? Or is it really a disc shaped object?
    >>>> And right by that disc just to the left. There is a plug that looks
    >>>> unplugged. Where does that go to? And where does that large plug with
    >>>> two black wires and two green wires go to? I would guess to the fan. Is
    >>>> that so?
    >>> the laptop is still apart, had little time to experiment, the two
    >>> fuses are ok will have to test capacitors, in the while I took away
    >>> the cmos battery and soldered two wires to use a standard cr2032 but
    >>> nothing changes
    >>> my idea now, is that if I am not able to find the faulty component,
    >>> that may well be a custom one, I will try to cut the connections to
    >>> the battery poles and connect using a 2-way deviator, so that in one
    >>> position the lapton can work like now, charging the battery when
    >>> switched off, or running on battery only, or trun the deviator/switch
    >>> and give voltage directly to the cutted terminals, excluding the
    >>> battery, with an external power supply, the pc should still detect the
    >>> battery charge level from other contacts of battery in place
    >>> should this work?

    >> Well first I think that is a pretty good idea you have myself. Although
    >> will it work? Well I think it has a good chance to work if that means
    >> anything. But no guarantee.
    >>
    >> One thing worries me though. That is the difference between the battery
    >> voltage and the power supply voltage. Your battery is most likely a
    >> lithium battery and when wired in series, would top out at 4.2v per
    >> cell. But batteries are not normally rated in this matter, but like 3.6V
    >> per cell in series. Or something around this figure.
    >>
    >> And I would really like to know the difference using the 4.2v per cell
    >> in series vs. what the power supply puts out. Let's say you battery says
    >> 10.8v. That would be 3 x 3.6v = 10.8. Now knowing that 3 cells in series
    >> (others could be in parallel too and don't count in this formula). So
    >> the highest the battery would be fully charged could be as high as 12.6v.
    >>
    >> And I would be really leery feeding anything higher than this. Although
    >> you could probably be okay 2v higher than this and it still might be
    >> okay. So we are talking about 14.6v now. And maybe 15.6v might be okay
    >> too, but that is really pushing it. As I think you would be risking
    >> something burning out. And I bet the power supply puts out more than
    >> this, doesn't it?
    >>
    >> So I think your best bet would be to have two supplies. One lower to
    >> match the battery voltage and to feed that to replace the battery
    >> voltage. And the original one to charge the battery like it does now.
    >> They also sell power supplies that you can select the voltage and that
    >> might be a good idea. But never miss select the correct voltage. That is
    >> the only danger with them besides setting the wrong polarity.
    >>
    >> Remember too, never supply external power to the battery. If you
    >> accidentally supplied 12.6v or less to a 10.8v battery is one thing. And
    >> not a very good idea at all since the current is so high from the
    >> supply. But anything higher is super dangerous. As the battery (unless a
    >> safety circuit kicks in inside of the battery) will overcharge and burst
    >> into flames.
    >>
    >> And once it is bursting into flames, I believe water on this fire only
    >> makes it worse. Although I am not sure. Some sort of metal container
    >> should contain it well (and save your house from burning down). Although
    >> the vapors are probably dangerous too.
    >>
    >> Now do you want to rethink all of this?

    >
    > somebody suggests me to have a look at Intel's papares to find any
    > possible patch or update of the microcode, so I put the motherboard
    > into the scanner:
    > http://www.flickr.com/photos/23705027@N06/sets/72157624394316536/
    >
    > On the CPU I can read:
    >
    > LF80537 T5300
    > 5648B999 SL9WE
    >
    > 1.73/2M/533
    > INTEL... copyright symbols and "06"
    >
    > It would be good to try a new or even different CPU to check if it's
    > working...


    Well it doesn't sound like a bad CPU to me, but who knows? I see it is
    in a ZIF socket and it is easy enough to replace. You know how to work
    those? See that large flathead screw? Turn it counterclockwise until it
    stops. Usually it only turns 90 to 180 degrees. Then the CPU should pull
    out without any resistance. If there is resistance, you didn't turn it
    far enough.

    I didn't notice any thermal paste on top of the CPU nor the northbridge
    chip. So the heatsink should have thermal pads on them. And don't use
    any thermal paste with thermal pads. All you need is to keep everything
    clean and without fingerprints or anything else where they meet.

    I believe my Gateway M-465e uses that same CPU. Oh that's a 533MHz front
    bus? Now I wonder if I got the right RAM in mine? As I thought it was
    only a 400MHz front bus and I thought I dropped in 400MHz RAM. If I did,
    oops!

    Oh that is a Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile Processor too! Mine is only a
    single core. Those Core 2's are not cheap, not even used on eBay. Well
    if you buy one and you have the same problem. I guess you can just
    resell it. ;-)

    --
    Bill
    Asus EEE PC 702G4 ~ 2GB RAM ~ 16GB-SDHC
    Xandros Linux (build 2007-10-19 13:03)
     

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