J
Jose
Flightless Bird
On Apr 13, 7:03 pm, "Jack B" <jslimp01nos...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Nah, normal 2 button mouse with wheel that came with the pc.
>
> Jack
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> "Unknown" <unkn...@unknown.kom> wrote in message
>
> news:u86HjIz2KHA.5004@TK2MSFTNGP04.phx.gbl...
> Is it a wired mouse?"Jack B" <jslimp01nos...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news
Dmr2xx2KHA.1016@TK2MSFTNGP02.phx.gbl...
>
>
>
> > Paul,
>
> > Replacing the capacitors is definitely out of my scope. Now I just need
> > the
> > pc to hang in there until I'm done with my project and get a new one. I
> > hate to think about leaving WinXP since I feel so comfortable with it.
> > I've
> > gone thru Win 3.0, 3.11, 95, 98, and XP has been great. I've got a laptop
> > with Windows Vista and I hate it.
>
> > It still baffles me that I can do a hard shut down, and afterwards
> > sometimes
> > (not always) movement of the mouse turns the pc back on.
>
> > Jack
>
> > ---------------------------------------------
>
> > "Paul" <nos...@needed.com> wrote in message
> >news:hq10p2$fip$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> > Jack B wrote:
> >> Ok, Everest identifies the cpu as the one at TEMPN1 and currently at 53
> >> Cº -- the MOBO is at 42 Cº and the Aux is at 82º. However, the Aux could
> >> be
> >> a bogus read or one that is not relevant. The cpu fan is at 5625 rpm and
> >> the ps is at 2446 rpm.
>
> >> Additional research indicates that the capacitors on the MOBO may be
> >> going
> >> on the fritz per the way they look in the photos in the above post.
>
> >> Jack
>
> > That is exactly what I was about to ask you next I noticed
> > the discoloration in this photo.
>
> >http://www.leveragegame.com/HPIM7894r-782x585.jpg
>
> > The one in the center, with the orange goo on top, looks ripe.
> > The "lines" on the cap, are stamped in the metal, to form a
> > pressure relief valve. If the cap starts to fail, and gas builds
> > up inside, the stamp marks crack open. Then the liquid can ooze
> > out.
>
> > Vcore will be unstable, especially when there are so few output caps
> > in your circuit, and one of them has failed for sure. It is easy to
> > get crashes with the caps like that.
>
> > I had an ATX power supply that failed like that, and I got some
> > orange-rust colored deposits on the top of four output side caps.
>
> > There are web sites, that sell replacement capacitor kits, but you'd
> > have to be a died-in-the-wool hardware repair person, to do the repair
> > yourself.
> > The thing is, with caps, you have to replace whole sets of them. As
> > they're likely to fail at the same time. Your Vcore circuit is the typical
> > two phase design popular with Athlon motherboards. And there don't seemto
> > be
> > too many caps associated directly with Vcore.
>
> >http://www.badcaps.net/
>
> > It would be more "fun" to replace them, if the motherboards were designed
> > properly for easy removal. At my company, we used extra-large holes for
> > capacitor
> > leads, and at the time, it never occurred to me why we used them. Until
> > one
> > day, I needed to change out a cap on a board, and it came out easy. A
> > lot of other boards (like at a second company I worked at), use
> > "interference
> > fit" holes, where the leg of the capacitor is basically jammed into the
> > hole.
> > Those are the devil to remove. Even with a vacuum de-soldering station,I
> > had
> > to say many swear words to get one out. And I had a few of them to do.
> > With home tools, dealing with that kind of crap, would be no fun at all..
>
> > You can take the "brute force" approach, and cut away the cap from the
> > top,
> > leaving the spindly two legs standing there. But the problem with usinga
> > lot of force during the repair, is the danger of damaging the plated
> > holes, ripping up tracks and so on. Motherboards are not fabricated,
> > with those kinds of forces in mind. If you could get a hold of the lead
> > from the top, where it goes into the board, you could pull on it while
> > heating from the solder side, and the leads would come out easier that
> > way. But man-handling the cap from the top, comes with some risk,
> > and I've always tried to do them, by removing all the solder from the
> > holes, and forcing them out from the back.
>
> > The plated thru hole, can be ripped right out of the motherboard,
> > if you use heat and force on them. I know, because I've done that (but
> > while practicing on surplus circuit boards I used to buy as a kid).
> > It's how I learned what a plated hole is.
>
> > In this picture, you can see a "land" or pad, which may be visible
> > from the top of the motherboard. In the example, the motherboard
> > is five layers (which would not be considered normal). Motherboards
> > are four layer, with two copper layers inside. Some motherboards were
> > six layer, like RAMBUS boards, as they needed additional controlled
> > impedance routing layers. There may even be a few with eight layers
> > for all I know. But since the motherboard cost goes up with layer
> > count, four layer would be preferred for high volume low cost
> > computer motherboards. And you can rip that "thing" in the picture,
> > right out of the hole, with enough force.
>
> >http://lh5.ggpht.com/interfacebus.com/SJbrWtqsmBI/AAAAAAAAA2w/H0KczNz...
>
> > So now the question would boil down to, is your motherboard make and
> > model available on Ebay ? And if it is, are the caps on the unit
> > on Ebay, in any better shape than yours ? The "Capacitor Plague"
> > affected some computing products, pretty heavily, such that certain
> > Dell motherboards, you would not expect to find any good ones for
> > sale (unless someone re-capped them first).
>
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
>
> > Paul
If it is still locking up sometimes, why don't you try to figure that
out with the method I told you about before?
It will take less time than figuring out which heat sensor is right
for you, realizing that TEMPIN2 of 81 is not your CPU, taking pictures
of your motherboard, reading about learning how to recap a mohterboard
(although that is all very interesting) - you would have been done by
now and we would perhaps know something for sure instead of wondering/
guessing day after day about what it might be.
Make the registry adjustment (1 minute)
Reboot (2 minutes)
Wait for it to lock up
Press Ctrl+Scroll Lock-Scroll Lock to force a memory dump - or two
dumps, or three dumps (30 seconds)
Email me the latest memory dumps from cwindows\minidump for
analysis. (3 minutes)
I am always set up to analyze memory dumps.
> Nah, normal 2 button mouse with wheel that came with the pc.
>
> Jack
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> "Unknown" <unkn...@unknown.kom> wrote in message
>
> news:u86HjIz2KHA.5004@TK2MSFTNGP04.phx.gbl...
> Is it a wired mouse?"Jack B" <jslimp01nos...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news
Dmr2xx2KHA.1016@TK2MSFTNGP02.phx.gbl...>
>
>
> > Paul,
>
> > Replacing the capacitors is definitely out of my scope. Now I just need
> > the
> > pc to hang in there until I'm done with my project and get a new one. I
> > hate to think about leaving WinXP since I feel so comfortable with it.
> > I've
> > gone thru Win 3.0, 3.11, 95, 98, and XP has been great. I've got a laptop
> > with Windows Vista and I hate it.
>
> > It still baffles me that I can do a hard shut down, and afterwards
> > sometimes
> > (not always) movement of the mouse turns the pc back on.
>
> > Jack
>
> > ---------------------------------------------
>
> > "Paul" <nos...@needed.com> wrote in message
> >news:hq10p2$fip$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> > Jack B wrote:
> >> Ok, Everest identifies the cpu as the one at TEMPN1 and currently at 53
> >> Cº -- the MOBO is at 42 Cº and the Aux is at 82º. However, the Aux could
> >> be
> >> a bogus read or one that is not relevant. The cpu fan is at 5625 rpm and
> >> the ps is at 2446 rpm.
>
> >> Additional research indicates that the capacitors on the MOBO may be
> >> going
> >> on the fritz per the way they look in the photos in the above post.
>
> >> Jack
>
> > That is exactly what I was about to ask you next
I noticed> > the discoloration in this photo.
>
> >http://www.leveragegame.com/HPIM7894r-782x585.jpg
>
> > The one in the center, with the orange goo on top, looks ripe.
> > The "lines" on the cap, are stamped in the metal, to form a
> > pressure relief valve. If the cap starts to fail, and gas builds
> > up inside, the stamp marks crack open. Then the liquid can ooze
> > out.
>
> > Vcore will be unstable, especially when there are so few output caps
> > in your circuit, and one of them has failed for sure. It is easy to
> > get crashes with the caps like that.
>
> > I had an ATX power supply that failed like that, and I got some
> > orange-rust colored deposits on the top of four output side caps.
>
> > There are web sites, that sell replacement capacitor kits, but you'd
> > have to be a died-in-the-wool hardware repair person, to do the repair
> > yourself.
> > The thing is, with caps, you have to replace whole sets of them. As
> > they're likely to fail at the same time. Your Vcore circuit is the typical
> > two phase design popular with Athlon motherboards. And there don't seemto
> > be
> > too many caps associated directly with Vcore.
>
> >http://www.badcaps.net/
>
> > It would be more "fun" to replace them, if the motherboards were designed
> > properly for easy removal. At my company, we used extra-large holes for
> > capacitor
> > leads, and at the time, it never occurred to me why we used them. Until
> > one
> > day, I needed to change out a cap on a board, and it came out easy. A
> > lot of other boards (like at a second company I worked at), use
> > "interference
> > fit" holes, where the leg of the capacitor is basically jammed into the
> > hole.
> > Those are the devil to remove. Even with a vacuum de-soldering station,I
> > had
> > to say many swear words to get one out. And I had a few of them to do.
> > With home tools, dealing with that kind of crap, would be no fun at all..
>
> > You can take the "brute force" approach, and cut away the cap from the
> > top,
> > leaving the spindly two legs standing there. But the problem with usinga
> > lot of force during the repair, is the danger of damaging the plated
> > holes, ripping up tracks and so on. Motherboards are not fabricated,
> > with those kinds of forces in mind. If you could get a hold of the lead
> > from the top, where it goes into the board, you could pull on it while
> > heating from the solder side, and the leads would come out easier that
> > way. But man-handling the cap from the top, comes with some risk,
> > and I've always tried to do them, by removing all the solder from the
> > holes, and forcing them out from the back.
>
> > The plated thru hole, can be ripped right out of the motherboard,
> > if you use heat and force on them. I know, because I've done that (but
> > while practicing on surplus circuit boards I used to buy as a kid).
> > It's how I learned what a plated hole is.
>
> > In this picture, you can see a "land" or pad, which may be visible
> > from the top of the motherboard. In the example, the motherboard
> > is five layers (which would not be considered normal). Motherboards
> > are four layer, with two copper layers inside. Some motherboards were
> > six layer, like RAMBUS boards, as they needed additional controlled
> > impedance routing layers. There may even be a few with eight layers
> > for all I know. But since the motherboard cost goes up with layer
> > count, four layer would be preferred for high volume low cost
> > computer motherboards. And you can rip that "thing" in the picture,
> > right out of the hole, with enough force.
>
> >http://lh5.ggpht.com/interfacebus.com/SJbrWtqsmBI/AAAAAAAAA2w/H0KczNz...
>
> > So now the question would boil down to, is your motherboard make and
> > model available on Ebay ? And if it is, are the caps on the unit
> > on Ebay, in any better shape than yours ? The "Capacitor Plague"
> > affected some computing products, pretty heavily, such that certain
> > Dell motherboards, you would not expect to find any good ones for
> > sale (unless someone re-capped them first).
>
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
>
> > Paul
If it is still locking up sometimes, why don't you try to figure that
out with the method I told you about before?
It will take less time than figuring out which heat sensor is right
for you, realizing that TEMPIN2 of 81 is not your CPU, taking pictures
of your motherboard, reading about learning how to recap a mohterboard
(although that is all very interesting) - you would have been done by
now and we would perhaps know something for sure instead of wondering/
guessing day after day about what it might be.
Make the registry adjustment (1 minute)
Reboot (2 minutes)
Wait for it to lock up
Press Ctrl+Scroll Lock-Scroll Lock to force a memory dump - or two
dumps, or three dumps (30 seconds)
Email me the latest memory dumps from c
windows\minidump foranalysis. (3 minutes)
I am always set up to analyze memory dumps.